比較失望的一餐 @波圖

【比較失望的一餐 @波圖 】

早陣子在波圖遊玩時，去試吃一間在網路上有頗高評價的葡萄牙菜餐廳。老實說，我不是食家，吃東西主要是吃味道、注重服務和食店環境。

據說，這間餐廳的烤豬手 (Pernil de Porco Assado, 17歐, 2人份量) 是最有名氣的，但由於我當日是一個人進餐，而雖則我極想試這道菜，但看到附近食客桌上的烤豬手餐，份量實在是太大了，服務員建議我選另一道接近的菜式，於是，我就挑了個叫 Perna de Porco Assado 的。

餐廳職員服務，我不能說很好，由於很多人說這間店很爆滿，所以當天我是晚上7點左右到達，客人不是很多，但職員已極忙碌地工作。侍應先生給我餐牌後，不斷遊說我要點餐前麵包，見他這樣堅持😄，我就試試。

吃後感：餐前麵包味道是不錯。但 Perna de Porco Assado (8.50歐) 比較平凡，沒有覺得有何特別。餐廳裡的桌子椅子擺放得比較接近，感覺有點擠迫。而可能客人開始多起來，感覺當天侍應們的服務態度只是一般 (我認我對這項是要求比較高一點 😅)。

好啦，讀到這裡可能各位會想知道我講的這間餐廳是哪間呢? 是叫 Antunes。 (網上有些人說 "在地人"都強力推薦，不過我問過一位住波圖的葡萄牙朋友，兩間在波圖住宿地工作的本地職員，都說沒聽過這間餐廳....哈哈)，所以我想說的是，不要太在意有沒有人推薦，有時候，小巷的小餐館可能做菜做得更出色 😄。

【波圖主教座堂 / Sé do Porto

【波圖主教座堂】
【Sé do Porto】

雖然主教座堂的位置有點偏僻, 不過本人覺得, 來波圖旅遊時如有時間, 不妨走訪這座教堂, 因它始終是波圖市的宗教象徵建築之一, 不參觀好像是旅程中的一個小缺陷 (對我這位教徒而言)。

主教座堂外觀不是非常宏偉, 但仍很值得參觀, 特別是教堂外的一大幅藍白瓷磚畫, 場景非常震撼, 還有要進入教堂內的哥德式迴廊參觀欣賞。

波圖酒窖遊 / Wine cellar tours in Vila Nova de Gaia

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【波圖酒窖遊】
【Wine cellar tours in Vila Nova de Gaia】

印象中我好像沒有多談過在波圖酒窖遊, 有讀者問起, 我盡管談一點。不過先聲明, 本人不是「酒迷」, 所以所知應不及其他好此道的朋友, 哈！如其他朋友有東西想分享, 非常歡迎。😁

所謂波圖市酒窖遊, 遊覽的地方其實不是在波圖市, 而是隔著杜羅河(Rio Douro), 對岸的 Vila Nova de Gaia (加亞新城), 這裡有超過60座不同的酒窖, 當中很多都有舉辦付費導賞團, 由酒窖派的專業人士介紹酒窖歷史、釀造砵酒過程等, 之後就一般會送一杯砵酒給每位參觀者品嘗。

由於酒窖的數目太多, 大多數旅客都是選擇參觀其中兩至三間, 當中最受歡迎的酒窖包括: Sandeman、Cálem、Taylor's、Croft 和 Ferreira。

各座酒窖的砵酒, 都是產自

杜羅河谷 (Douro Valley)的釀酒區, 它是世界上其中最古老, 也是受保護的葡萄酒產地之一。砵酒被運到酒窖裡的橡木桶中陳釀至成熟然後裝瓶運到世界各地。

酒窖導賞團一般每天舉辦多場, 即日報名, 有些 (例如Sandeman、Cálem)比較容易滿位, 所以提議在到達波圖的第一天即去報名。

至於想到杜羅河谷上的酒莊參觀, 由於沒有公車/巴士到達, 需要開車前往。如沒有打算在葡萄牙時開車遊玩, 可先行查詢當地團。

波圖必食 ~ francesinhas / Must eat while in Porto ~ francesinhas

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【波圖必食 ~ francesinhas】
【Must eat while in Porto ~ francesinhas】

沒有可能到波圖旅遊而不吃的最著名食物, 雖然我明知這個食物帶給我的脂肪是何其的多啊! 😂

I can't be in Porto but miss this famous food which represents the city ~ francesinhas, although I know so well they are actually really very fatty!!!!

每次到波圖, 我心裡都說 "以前都嚐過了, 今次不用啦", 卻又會自圓其說 "既然來到波圖, 都應該要吃, 否則可能會後悔"。

Each time I tell myself 'no' to francesinhas when I'm in Porto, I end up being at a local gourmet restaurant having one.

就是啦, 反複考慮之後又是吃了! 波圖山坡多, 吃完做多點走動, 擊退身上的肥膏! 😂

All right. I will do more exercise afterwards. I promise it to myself. Ha! 😂

還有, Café Santiago 的 francesinhas真是無懈可擊! 太美味了!

By the way, the francesinhas served at Café Santiago are so good. Excellent!

輕鬆慢遊波圖 - 坐電車 / "Slow travel in Porto" - a relaxing tram ride

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【輕鬆慢遊波圖 - 坐電車】
【"Slow travel in Porto" - a relaxing tram ride】

用坐電車的方法去看波圖市中心, 感覺實在寫意又輕鬆。

波圖有怎麼好看? 一趟懷舊電車遊: 看看街上的古舊建築物、路過的行人、怎至只是聽聽電車為提醒路人和其他車輪而發出的清脆的「叮叮聲」, 簡單隨意而舒服。

人生應當這樣才最好。:-D

A pleasant and relaxing way to see the daily life of Porto.

Hop onto a nostalgic tram and take in the views of the historic buildings along the way, the passers-by who are strolling on the streets, and even just listen to the silvery tinkles from the tram. Simple, casual and comfortable.

Life should be like this. :-D

波圖的老牌地道西餅麵包店 /餐廳: Confeitaria do Bolhão /The historical local pastry shop and restaurant in Porto: Confeitaria do Bolhão

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【波圖的老牌地道西餅麵包店 /餐廳: Confeitaria do Bolhão】
【The historical local pastry shop and restaurant in Porto: Confeitaria do Bolhão】

一間西餅麵包店能夠迄立不倒超過100年, 真是非常難得。創立於1896年的Confeitaria do Bolhão, 餅店的門面也許不太吸引, 但櫥窗展示着的各式各樣的糕店, 絕對「吸睛」!

It's not easy at all for any bakery or pastry shop to stand the test of time for over 100 years, and Confeitaria do Bolhão made it. Founded in 1896, Confeitaria do Bolhão probably lacks a charming look, but certainly it possesses a simple and decent content. Have a look at the window display and you will be impressed by the wide variety of mouth-watering cakes and pastries it makes every day!

那天我慕名去朝聖, 由於西餅店早上6點就開門營業 (逢星期天休息) , 為把握來波圖的旅遊時間, 也想避開繁忙時間和稍後的人潮, 就提早一點8:30a.m. 來吃早餐。

這裡的鮮榨果汁很受顧客歡迎, 不過我則試了傳統的葡式咖啡 galão。 在葡萄牙時已經習慣了喝 galão, 所以很想嘗嘗 Confeitaria do Bolhão 所弄的 galão, 味道會是如何, 結果是, 好味道! 試過他們的麵包, 很新鮮。

The other day, I had a pilgrim tour to Confeitaria do Bolhão. It opens very early the day for business - at 6am (note: it closes on Sundays) - so in order to grasp the time while I was in Porto and also to try to to avoid the crowds during peak hours, I went there for breakfast at around 8:30a.m. that day.

Freshly squeezed juices are one of shoppers' popular choices, but I tried the traditional Portuguese coffee galão instead. It tasted well. The pastry I had was freshly made and was nice too.

有興趣的話, 大家也可去嘗嘗他們的午餐, 價格很實惠。

If you're interested, you may also go and try their lunch, which is of good value too.

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Confeitaria do Bolhão 西餅麵包店 /餐廳:
Address / 地址: Rua Formosa 339 (Formosa 街339號)
(Just opposite 'Mercado do Bolhão' / 就在 Bolhão 街市的對面)

Business hours / 開放時間:
(Mondays to Saturdays / 星期一至六) 06:00–20:00
(Sundays / 星期日) Closed 休館

波圖美麗古老的 Livraria Lello & Irmão Bookshop 書店將成為《哈利波特和被詛咒的孩子 - 第一及第二部曲》新書推廣的世界首發地 / Livraria Lello & Irmão Bookshop chosen as the world premiere to launch Harry Potter's latest book

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【波圖美麗古老的 Livraria Lello & Irmão Bookshop 書店將成為《哈利波特和被詛咒的孩子 - 第一及第二部曲》新書推廣的世界首發地】

【Livraria Lello & Irmão Bookshop chosen as the world premiere to launch Harry Potter's latest book】

7月31日, 位於波圖、曾被世界知名旅遊書 Lonly Planet 評選為全球十大最美書店之一的古老書店 Livraria Lello & Irmão, 將成為《哈利波特和被詛咒的孩子 - 第一及第二部曲》新書推廣的世界首發地。Livraria Lello & Irmão 書店據說也是《哈利波特》系列的作者 - J.K.羅琳創作這風靡全球的小說系列的靈感泉源之地。:-)

On July 31, the world premiere for the book "Harry Potter and the Cursed Child - Parts I & II," - the latest book in the Harry Potter saga - will take place at the renowned Livraria Lello & Irmão Bookshop in Porto - one of the oldest bookshops all over Portugal and has been named by Lonely Planet as one of 'The Ten Most Beautiful Bookstores in the world'. It is also said to be a place of inspiration for the writing of J.K. Rowling - the author for the Harry Potter series. :-)

在7月30日晚上10時, 書店先會舉行一個別開生面的派對晚會, 鼓勵粉絲們化裝和打扮成他們最喜愛的哈利波特人物造型參加派對, 派對上會有各種魔法活動。 而時間到達7月31日凌晨12時, 粉絲們就可以開始購買新書, 先睹為快!

At 10pm on July 30, a party will be held featuring various Harry Potter characters and magic potions and activities. Livraria Lello encourages fans to come and dress up for the occasion. Then at midnight on July 31, fans will be able to buy the English version of the book!

新書《哈利波特和被詛咒的孩子 - 第一及第二部曲》其實是作家 Jack Thorne, 根據《哈利波特》原著系列創作而成的同名舞台劇官方劇本書。故事的發生時間, 正是第七本小說《哈利波特與死亡聖器》發生的19年後。此時, 哈利波特已經是魔法部的一位職員, 以及三位小孩的父親了, 故事是有關他和他最小的孩子Albus 的。

"Harry Potter and the Cursed Child - Parts I & II" - written by Jack Thorne and based on the original series by J.K. Rowling and John Tiffany - is actually an official script book of the play by the same name. The story is set exactly nineteen years after the events of "Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows," telling about Harry Potter, now a Ministry of Magic employee, and his youngest son, Albus Severus.

Livraria Lello & Irmão 在1881年開業至今。精美的雕刻樓梯、五彩玻璃的天窗, 活像哈利波特故事裡的場景, 到裡頭參觀, 會令人流連忘返。據說當年當J.K.羅琳在波圖教授英語期間, 經常有空就在書店的咖啡角裡寫小說。:-)

Livraria Lello & Irmão has been running since 1881. The bookshop is said to be frequented by J.K. Rowling when she taught English in Porto. 

【時間不同, 景色可以分別很大】@ 波圖 /【Different times, different scenery】@ Porto

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【時間不同, 景色可以分別很大】@ 波圖
【Different times, different scenery】@ Porto

選擇最佳的時間去旅行可是一門大學問。同一樣的景物, 在好天氣的日子、壞天氣的日子之下, 分別頗大。 而在不同的季節去同一個地方, 可以感受到的風情, 也可以截然不同。
  

 There's a lot of knowledge in choosing the best time to travel Nice and poor weathers make huge differences to the beauty of the same scenery. And when you visit the same place in different seasons, you can have pretty different feelings too.

個人覺得, 每年 4月至10月, 是旅遊葡萄牙的最佳時間。 而從11月到次年3月, 天氣一般較寒冷和風很大 (特別在北方包括波圖等地), 而且因為是雨季, 要有心理準備, 常常下雨, 有時甚至會有暴雨。

Personally, I think May to October each year is the best time to travel to Portugal; whereas from November to March, the weather is usually pretty cold and windy (in particular in the north including Porto). As it is also the rainy season for Portugal, be prepared for many rainy days and even rainstorms.

我放了四張我在波圖拍攝的照片:
1) 第一和第三張照片攝於6月後旬.
2) 第二和第四張照片攝於12月未;

您或許能從照片中感受得到那些分別。

Attached are two sets of pictures that I took in Porto:
1) the 1st and 3rd pictures in end of December; and
2) the 2nd and 4th ones in late June.

You may be able to see the big differences.

波圖 Majestic Café 的法式多士 (吐司) / Rabanadas Majestic Style, @ Majestic Café, Porto

 

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【波圖 Majestic Café 的法式多士 (吐司)】
【Rabanadas Majestic Style, @ Majestic Café, Porto】

座落在繁忙的波圖市中心的 Majestic Café 咖啡館歷史悠久, 貴氣十足。 到訪時應該選吃選喝怎麼呢? 不二之選包括 Rabanadas Majestic Style ~~ 一種配以乾果和香濃奶油蛋羹的特有法式多士 (吐司)。

Rabanadas Majestic Style 的製作材料: 麵包, 雞蛋, 牛奶, 糖, 玉桂粉, 檸檬皮, 松子, 堅果與葡萄乾。

Situated in busy downtown Porto, Majestic Café is a cafe with history. What food and drink can a visitor choose to have at the café? One good option is their flagship dessert - "rabanadas" Majestic Style - a french toast wrapped in a creamy egg custard with dried fruit.

Ingredients of rabanadas Majestic Style: bread, eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon, lemon zest, pine nuts, nuts and sultanas.

為了美食、華麗的的室內裝飾、友善的服務和優雅的環境, 雖然價格實在是有點高昂, Majestic Café 咖啡館仍然絕對值得一遊! 

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An iconic place that well worth a visit for its nice food, beautiful interior decor, accommodating staff and elegant setting, although food is, frankly speaking, a little pricey! 

有關波圖的地鐵 / About Metro @ Porto

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【有關波圖的地鐵】

【About Metro @ Porto】

波圖的地鐵系統很現代化和新穎, 而且都有很清楚的指示牌, 分成A至F六線, 以不同顏色顯示 (藍、紅、綠、黃、紫、橙)。 波圖地鐵系統有一樣東西較特別, 就是, 它們的地鐵出入口, 是採取開放式的! 也即是說, 使用地鐵是靠乘客自律買票。

我不敢以身試法不買票... 一來自認膽小, 二來如被捉到罰款額不少。以前在意大利時曾見過幾次有亞洲遊客被地鐵職員捉到沒有買票, 當時罰款已是50歐元! 聽說意大利地鐵、巴士由於發現不少亞洲旅客不買票上車, 所以集中抽查亞洲旅客。 我暫時沒有聽說過葡萄牙地鐵同樣這樣做, 但遵守法律買票就肯定安心, 另外, 請記緊上車前先將票拍卡生效。

Porto's metro system is modern and new. It is clearly marked with different letters (A to F) and by different colours (Blue, Red, Green, Yellow, Purple and Orange). One thing that makes it pretty special is that there are no entry barriers. It operates in an open way - relying heavily on the self-discipline of metro passengers to buy tickets.

I do not dare to defy the law ...I had seen several times when I was on the metro in Italy that Asian tourists got caught by metro staff for not travelling with validated tickets, and were each fined 50 euros! There have been rumours that the Italian train and metro authorities found that many Asian tourists didn't buy tickets and therefore they have inspectors making surprise checks on trams at all hours, targeting in particular Asian tourists. I'm not sure if it's the same in Portugal, but obeying the law and buying tickets is the only secured way travelling on the metro. BTW, remember to validate your tickets before boarding.

【最美麗的書店之一 -- Livraria Lello & Irmão】@ 波圖 / 【One of the most beautiful bookshops in the world - Livraria Lello & Irmão】@ Porto

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【最美麗的書店之一  --  Livraria Lello & Irmão】@ 波圖
【One of the most beautiful bookshops in the world - Livraria Lello & Irmão】@ Porto

無容置疑, Livraria Lello & Irmão 是來到波圖必要看的地方之一。兩層高的書店, 內部裝飾簡直是驚為天人 -- 裝飾精采的雕花木板、粉紅色的中央彎曲木樓梯、美妙的彩色玻璃天花，再加上 Art Deco 裝飾藝術風格的正立面, 就像在哈利·波特的世界裡才會看得到的神奇之地。

Without doubt, Livraria Lello & Irmão is a must-see in Porto. The two-level interior of this bookshop is simply stunning - beautifully decorated carved wooden panels, a pink winding central wooden stairway, wonderful stained glass ceiling, plus the Art Deco facade. A unusually magical place like one would only see in the world of Harry Potter.

順便說一句，從今天2015年7月23日開始，書店開始徵收遊客3歐元作入內參觀的費用。前兩天我把握最後免費入內參觀的機會，盡情欣賞和拍攝一番。

By the way, starting from today July 23 2015, the bookshop charges visitors a 3-euro entrance fee. Two days ago, I grasped the last chance of free entry to visit and appreciate its architecture and design, and took many pictures too. 

紀念聖約翰節慶 @波圖 ~ 今天 6月23日 波圖一年一度最大型戶外派對 / Festivities of São João do Porto @ Porto ~ Porto's biggest party of the year today 23/June

 

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【紀念聖約翰節慶 @波圖 ~ 今天 6月23日 波圖一年一度最大型戶外派對】
【Festivities of São João do Porto @ Porto ~ Porto's biggest party of the year today 23/June】

(This post has only Chinese version)

節慶月在葡萄牙, 高潮夜今晚在波圖!

聖約翰是波圖市的守護聖人, 聖約翰節在波圖已經有超過600年歷史, 最初是為紀念約翰洗者而定的 (天主教定6月24日為聖若翰洗者日 Saint John the Baptist), 但慢慢卻變成了現在當地人和遊客每年一度熱鬧狂歡的街頭派對。

聖約翰節以今晚23日最為熱鬧, 節目最豐富。 一連串活動由今天下午展開, 街道上不時有一隊隊穿著民族服裝的表演者, 一邊奏樂唱歌一邊遊行。周圍可見小販在擺賣傳統羅勒盆栽, 康乃馨和塑膠槌仔。塑膠槌仔是聖約翰節的重要標記, 到晚上大約7時開始, 街上男女老幼, 都會用塑膠槌仔敲打對方的頭! 這個起源已經無從稽考, 但可以肯定的是, 如果你沒有一個塑膠槌仔在手, 就只有任人敲打頭殼而全沒還擊之力!

今晚凌晨12時, 杜羅河上的煙花表演將會為整個聖約翰節的氣氛推上最高潮! 河兩岸會被擠得水洩不通, 擠滿欣賞煙花的群眾。

市內大街小巷裡的餐廳酒館盡是坐無虛席, 街上亦擠滿一條條排隊買炭燒沙甸魚、sangria凍飲、啤酒的長龍, 聽歌跳舞吃喝玩樂直至清晨時份 --- 整個波圖市, 在今晚將變成一個不夜天。

熱鬧過後, 明天下午會舉行一年一度 rabelos 賽船比賽。多艘設計古典優雅的傳統平底木帆船 (barcos rabelos) 會從杜羅河上游的Cabedelo 賽至 Ribeira 的路易斯一世雙層鐵橋。 這種木帆船在過去一直肩負著將一桶桶砵酒從產地 Douro Valley被載到 Ribeira 對岸 Vila Nova de Gaia 區酒莊的任務; 但時移世易, 現在已交由其他更先進便捷的交通公具所取代了。

聖約翰節令波圖不同凡響, 令遊客樂而忘返!