比較失望的一餐 @波圖

【比較失望的一餐 @波圖 】

早陣子在波圖遊玩時，去試吃一間在網路上有頗高評價的葡萄牙菜餐廳。老實說，我不是食家，吃東西主要是吃味道、注重服務和食店環境。

據說，這間餐廳的烤豬手 (Pernil de Porco Assado, 17歐, 2人份量) 是最有名氣的，但由於我當日是一個人進餐，而雖則我極想試這道菜，但看到附近食客桌上的烤豬手餐，份量實在是太大了，服務員建議我選另一道接近的菜式，於是，我就挑了個叫 Perna de Porco Assado 的。

餐廳職員服務，我不能說很好，由於很多人說這間店很爆滿，所以當天我是晚上7點左右到達，客人不是很多，但職員已極忙碌地工作。侍應先生給我餐牌後，不斷遊說我要點餐前麵包，見他這樣堅持😄，我就試試。

吃後感：餐前麵包味道是不錯。但 Perna de Porco Assado (8.50歐) 比較平凡，沒有覺得有何特別。餐廳裡的桌子椅子擺放得比較接近，感覺有點擠迫。而可能客人開始多起來，感覺當天侍應們的服務態度只是一般 (我認我對這項是要求比較高一點 😅)。

好啦，讀到這裡可能各位會想知道我講的這間餐廳是哪間呢? 是叫 Antunes。 (網上有些人說 "在地人"都強力推薦，不過我問過一位住波圖的葡萄牙朋友，兩間在波圖住宿地工作的本地職員，都說沒聽過這間餐廳....哈哈)，所以我想說的是，不要太在意有沒有人推薦，有時候，小巷的小餐館可能做菜做得更出色 😄。

【歐洲唯一的茶葉種植和生產地 @ 亞速爾群島 Açores 】

【歐洲唯一的茶葉種植和生產地 @ 亞速爾群島 Açores 】

亞速爾群島由於氣候溫和, 火山地的土壤肥沃, 很適宜種植茶葉, 因此亞速爾群島的São Miguel, 從1880年代開始, 就一直有種植茶葉和設有製造工場, 一條龍式處理和包裝茶葉, 出售到世界各地。

 São Miguel 共有兩間茶葉種植地, 分別是Chá Gorreana 和 Chá Porto Formoso。據說, 種植茶葉的樹木種子, 在19世紀初先由葡萄牙人從殖民地巴西的里約熱內盧帶回國, 後再請中國的茶葉專家, 專誠到亞速爾群島指導當地人茶葉種植的技藝。

一場來到 São Miguel, 豈能不買點回家沖飲啊。

有關在里斯本吃素菜 / About having vegetarian food in Lisbon

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【有關在里斯本吃素菜】
【About having vegetarian food in Lisbon】

近來又回復忙碌狀態, 卻突然想起有讀者問過我, 可否介紹在里斯本的素菜館。現在想起了問題卻又找不到是誰問過, 真的很抱歉。

里斯本很多餐廳都提供素菜選擇, 而有些素菜館的質素也很好。如有人有興趣想知的話, 我可寫一點, 推薦一間, 不過不知道大家對素食可有興趣 (因為大家來葡萄牙玩, 我推想, 最想吃的可能會是海鮮、蛋撻之類)。

現場直擊 @里斯本 ~ Pão de Deus + Bolo de Berlim + 鮮橙汁 / Live @ Lisbon ~ Pão de Deus + Bolo de Berlim + fresh orange juice

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[現場直擊 @里斯本 ~ Pão de Deus + Bolo de Berlim + 鮮橙汁]
[Live @ Lisbon ~ Pão de Deus + Bolo de Berlim + fresh orange juice]

除了風景, 不忘美食。迷你版Bolo de Berlim適合胃口小的朋友, 如我。

Apart from the beautiful summer days, there is of course great food. Mini Bolo de Berlim
is suitable for someone like me who has a small stomach but wanna try everything, LOL.

葡撻盡在 里斯本 @Manteigaria / Egg tarts @Manteigaria in Lisbon

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【葡撻盡在 里斯本 @Manteigaria】
【Egg tarts @Manteigaria in Lisbon】

你或許覺得我說得誇張, 但我真是很掛念這間葡撻店的葡撻! 它賣的葡撻是我覺得除了貝倫區的百年老號外, 最最最好味道的!

而除了食物質素外, 服務員態度非常好, 又可以一邊吃葡撻一邊透過玻璃窗觀看他們做葡撻的過程, 而且...還有免費wifi用, 對旅客很貼心呵!

連一位只喜歡吃貝倫蛋撻的葡萄牙朋友, 都吃光了我送他的半打Manteigaria葡撻! 

I know you may not believe me, but I'm really not exaggerating at all.I keep going back to 'Manteigaria' because of their irresistible 'pastéis de nata' (Portuguese egg tarts). To me, their egg tarts are just as good as those from Pastéis de Belém.

In addition to the excellent quality of their egg tarts, the staff is so friendly and nice. You can watch them make egg tarts through the big glass window. By the way, they offer free wifi too.

I have a Portuguese friend who only eats Pastéis de Belém. I gave him half a dozen and he finished them all! 

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地址/Address: Rua do Loreto, 2 (Chiado區/Chiado district)
(面對著賈梅士廣場, 非常好找 / Facing Camões Square in Chiado, easy to find, you won't miss the place)

在葡萄牙買葡萄酒 / Buying wines in Portugal

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如果你喜歡飲葡萄酒的話, 在葡萄牙旅遊時必定要品嘗一下, 更可以買些回國。在那裡可以買得到葡萄酒呢?

If you enjoy drinking grape wine, then you must try some when you're travelling in Portugal. Some tourists even buy and take home bottles of Portuguese-made grape wines. Where can you actually buy wines?

基本上, 不少大型超級市場已經有很多選擇, 在大城市如里斯本和波圖, 市中心也有很多賣酒的專門店。

Basically, there are plenty of choices from local supermarkets. In such large cities as Lisbon and Porto, you can easily find liquor stores in the city centre.

如果大家在里斯本想買些酒回旅館喝, 或帶回國, 提議大家可到 Centro Colombo 購物中心 (Centro Colombo Shopping Mall)裡的 Continente超級市場, 那間超市規模極大, 而售酒的部分酒的種類很多, 除葡萄牙國內不同的紅、白酒、砵酒等, 也供應國外進口的杜松子酒、威士忌等。

If you're in Lisbon, you may try to get some wines at Continente supermarket in Centro Colombo shopping mall. This is a huge supermarket with a wide selection of wines produced in Portugal. Other imported liquors such as gin and whisky can be found in there too.

How to get to Continente supermarket at Centro Colombo / 如何到達哥倫布購物中心裡的 Continente 超級市場 :

Continente Supermarket
Centro Colombo
Metro / 地鐵: Colégio Militar / Luz 地鐵站 (Blue Line / 地鐵藍線)

如果在波圖, 要找賣酒的地方更容易, 因為波圖的 Douro Valley是世界著名的砵酒發源地, 每年均盛產很多質優的砵酒。大家在參觀當地酒莊、酒窖時可順道購買, 或者在波圖和對岸的 Vila Nova de Gaia 市中心也有不少售賣酒類的店舖。

要注意, 一般他們賣酒都只給你一個膠袋甚至紙袋載著那瓶酒, 不會有保護包裝包著玻璃瓶, 因此如你想購買一些放在行李箱或背包帶回國, 當必要用厚厚的棉衣或有氣泡的包裝紙 (自己出發來葡萄牙前早有準備) 先包好, 並緊緊的放在行李裡, 以免打破。

Saúde! (飲勝!) 

Places selling liquor are very easy to find in Porto too, especially because of the big fame of Douro Valley - the birthplace of the world-famous port wine. Each year, high quality port wines are produced in Douro Valley, then stored and aged in Vila Nova de Gaia. If you're visiting local wineries in Vila Nova de Gaia, take the opportunity to buy some good wines. Or otherwise, grab some when you happen to see a liquor shop while touring around city centre Porto.

Note that in general, shops selling liquors usually only give you a paper bag or plastic bag for you to carry the bottle of wine. No protective wraps or packaging is provided, so if you want to buy some and pack in your luggage or backpack to carry back to your own country, it is necessary for you to wrap your bottle of wine with some thick coats or good bubble wraps (bought in your own country before coming to Portugal). And then place it tightly in your luggage to avoid breaking.

Saúde! (Cheers!) 

葡萄牙飲食 (一) ~ 葡萄牙黑毛豬火腿 / Porco preto presunto /Black pig ham of Portugal (1)

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【葡萄牙飲食 (一) ~ 葡萄牙黑毛豬火腿】
【Porco preto presunto /Black pig ham of Portugal (1) 】

談起風乾火腿, 最多人想起的, 相信會是意大利的 Parma ham和西班牙的黑毛豬火腿, 卻其實, 葡萄牙亦出產珍貴而且味美的黑毛豬火腿 (porco preto)。

Talking about ham, most people would think of, I believe, Italy's Parma ham and Spain's 'Jamón Ibérico'. But in fact, Portugal produces also top quality and precious (and needless to say delicious) Portuguese Iberico ham called 'porco preto' (=black pig ham).

店員替我切出一片肥瘦適中、薄得透光的火腿片, 並提議配搭葡萄牙砵酒一起享用, 當然聽從她的建議, 兩樣配搭確是完美。:-)

The shopkeeper cut out a slice of porco preto - thin and translucent flesh which is neither too fat nor too lean. She suggested to enjoy 'porco preto' together with a small portion of Portuguese port wine. Of course, I listened to her advice. Portuguese black pig cured ham + Portuguese port wine = a perfect match! :-)

Manteigaria Silva 這間在里斯本的老字號, 始於1890年, 已經開業超過100年, 除了售賣黑毛豬火腿, 還有葡萄牙芝士、葡萄牙紅酒、葡萄牙馬介休魚等。他們還可以替您把食物真空包裝, 方便您可以帶到國外去, 回家後還可繼續留戀在葡萄牙的美食中。:-)

'Manteigaria Silva', established in 1890 in Lisbon city centre, is a great popular place to buy a great selection of Portuguese gourmet products including cheese, codfish and ham. You can find some of the finest and most expensive 'porco preto' there too. They can pack everything in vacuum so you can take abroad with you and continue to enjoy some great Portuguese gourmets after you are back in your own country. :-)

便宜的 "濃咖啡 + 葡式蛋塔" 餐 / The very affordable "café + Pastel de nata" menu

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【便宜的 "濃咖啡 + 葡式蛋塔" 餐】
【The very affordable "café + Pastel de nata" menu】

葡萄牙的咖啡, 種類很多, 便宜又好喝。 雖然國內也有一些 Starbucks, 但那只是美式產品。傳統的小咖啡室, 他們的咖啡地道好喝, 而且價格實惠得多。

There are many types of Portuguese coffee, which are tasty and very affordable. Yep, there are Starbucks coffee shops in the country, but that is an American product. You should really go and enjoy some good coffee brewed at a traditional café.

地鐵和火車站的閘口內或大堂裡的咖啡店, 以及在公路上的餐廳等, 很多都有供應 "menu pastel de nata + café", 也即是「葡式蛋塔配濃咖啡餐」, 價錢只是大約1歐元。平常一杯濃咖啡反正都要 0.5 - 0.70歐元左右, 一個葡式蛋塔也要1歐元, 所以這種餐確是超值。有些店更容許將 café (葡萄牙式濃咖啡, 跟意大利espresso差不多), 轉做別種類的咖啡, 例如 galão (跟意大利的 caffè latte 差不多)。

除了「葡式蛋塔配濃咖啡餐」, 有時也有多種不同餐供選擇, 可以多點留意。

留意: Pastel de nata (蛋塔) 的複數是 Pastéis de Nata

In many places, including inside or in the lobby areas of metro and

train stations, and in restaurants on the highway, one can often see "menu pastel de nata + café" being offered. "Menu Pastel de nata + Café" is actually Portuguese egg tart with Café set meal. The price is usually about 1€.

A cup of café (similar to an Italian espresso) is usually 0.5€ - 0.70€; and Portuguese egg tarts are normally about 1€ each. So a "Menu Pastel de nata + Café" set meal is well worth the money.

Besides the "Menu Pastel de nata + Café", other special set meals may be offered too. Just check at each individual café.

P.S.: Pastel de nata (a Portuguese egg tart) - (singular) // Pastéis de Nata (plural)

【現場直擊】味道永遠都是一流的正宗葡燵! @Antiga Confeitaria de Belém /【Live】Always such delicious! Pasteis de Belém, the original Portuguese egg tarts. @Antiga Confeitaria de Belém

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【現場直擊】味道永遠都是一流的正宗葡燵! @Antiga Confeitaria de Belém

【Live】Always such delicious! Pasteis de Belém, the original Portuguese egg tarts. @Antiga Confeitaria de Belém

溫馨提議：雖然已到8月尾，遊客人潮沒有之前那麼鼎盛，但某些時段來到這店，還是要等位子 (雖然他們有400坐位), 等到位後，耐心等待侍應生來收拾之前客人的食具 (不要催促他們，因為他們已忙得不可開交，個別心情看來有點煩躁), 然後請他們幫您落單叫東西。吃完後，找之前幫您落單的同一位侍應生結帳, 給一點小費答謝他/她的服務。:-)

Some little advice: Although it's approaching the end of August, the peak travel season, it can still sometimes be hard to grab a table at this famous Confeitaria - the place which invented the Portuguese egg tarts. Stay patient, queue up for a table, sit down and then wait for the waiter/waitress to come to clear the table and serve you (don't chase them up as they are already so busy serving customers all day long). After having your wonderfully tasted Portuguese egg tarts, ask for the bill with the same waiter/waitress who served you before. Leave some tip for his/her hard work. :-)

【葡萄牙道地美食 ~ 齊來吃蝸牛!】 /【Portuguese delicacy ~ Let's have snails/caracóis together!】

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【葡萄牙道地美食 ~ 齊來吃蝸牛!】
【Portuguese delicacy ~ Let's have snails/caracóis together!】

很多人都知道法國人喜吃蝸牛, 其實, 葡萄牙人也很愛吃蝸牛的! 蝸牛更是葡萄牙其中一款最流行的小食, 特別在夏天, 會看到不少食店, 門外放有一個牌, 或櫥窗上會貼上一張紙, 寫著: Hà Caracóis (這裡有蝸牛), 即這間店有蝸牛吃。

有些店賣的蝸牛, 有分 "travessa", 價錢高一點, 因較大份量; 或 "prato", 小盤一點的蝸牛。吃蝸牛最好味道就是一邊吃一邊喝冰凍啤酒 (本地啤酒大品牌有Superbock 和 Sagres)! smile emoticon

Many people know that the French people eat snails. Indeed, Portuguese people also eat snails, and snails are even one of this nation's favourites! In especially the summertime, you will see signs go up outside restaurants and bars here saying "Hà Caracóis" (There are snails), meaning snails are available in that restaurant or bar.

Some eateries serve snails in "travessa" (in a larger dish) and prices are a little higher. Or, they are served in "prato" - a smaller plate of heaping snails. The top choice of drink to go with caracóis is a bottle/glass of cold beer (local beer brands are Superbock or Sagres).

【現場直擊】El Corte Ingles 百貨公司的糕點 / 【Live】Cakes and pastries at El Corte Ingles Department Store

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【現場直擊 @ 里斯本 】走路走到太倦了，找個地方吃茶點和休息一下，跟著再逛！ 
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【Live @ Lisbon】Walked too much and am sitting down at a café and refreshing myself before more walkings ahead. smile emoticon

這間開在El Corte Ingles 百貨公司裡的糕點店的蛋糕看來很吸引，買了一件吃，味道不錯，是南瓜蓉做餡的。

This pastelaria at the El Corte Ingles Department Store sells beautifully made cakes and pastries. The one I have had just now has got mashed pumpkin as fillings. Pretty tasty.

 smile emoticon

【現場直擊】我親愛的珍珠奶茶！ /【Live】My dear bubble milk tea !

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【現場直擊】我親愛的珍珠奶茶！@ 里斯本
【Live】My dear bubble milk tea ! @ Lisbon

難得的珍珠奶茶，給我在葡萄牙飲得到，樂透了 (因為這間好像是全葡萄牙第一間賣珍珠奶茶的地方，剛開張兩三星期左右) (價錢有點貴，算吧)！:-)

I found bubble milk tea in Portugal! This is the first place selling bubble milk tea all over Portugal (as far as I know it) opened just two or three weeks ago. Fantastic. A little pricy but, forget the price. :-)

【現場直擊】【下午茶點 @ Pastelaria Benard @里斯本】/ 【Live】【Afternoon snacks @ Pastelaria Benard, Lisbon】

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【現場直擊】【下午茶點 @ Pastelaria Benard @里斯本】
【Live】【Afternoon snacks @ Pastelaria Benard, Lisbon】

按捺不住，又來吃甜點了! 這間老店歷史悠久，不過我也是第一次來試試吃。收銀的女職員雖然不懂英文 (我就用我的爛葡萄牙文跟她說出我想要的甜點) 超友善，我吃完了她還特意走過來問我喜歡否，這裡的甜點很好吃。:-)

Can't resist the temptation of pastry (again!). I tried the pastry at this old traditional pastry shop. The lady at the cashier is very friendly (she can't speak English and I used my poor Portuguese to communicate with her), and she came over to ask if I liked the pastry that I had. Yes, I do! :-)

現場直擊 @Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon (里斯本著名 Mercado da Ribeira 街市) / Live @ Mercado da Ribeira (a famous market @Lisbon

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【現場直擊 @Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon (里斯本著名 Mercado da Ribeira 街市) 】

【Live @ Mercado da Ribeira (a famous market @Lisbon】

First time that I walked through here. Saw the meat/fish/fruit/flower market; and then had lunch at the food mall.

今次才是第一次真正慢慢的走這個街市，感覺實在很好。先逛完再在中庭的美食廣場吃中午飯，因為肚子實在太餓了。

這道菜叫 "Alentejo 黑豬面珠、配薯蓉和白菜，另加葡萄牙著名綠酒 (vinho verde), 味道很好。 

Lunch: Alentejo black pork cheeks with creamy potato mash and cabbage; and a glass of "vinho verde" (green wine).